Discover Úbeda and Baeza

We discovered the esparto grass technique in the workshop of Ubedíes, a family that has been working with esparto grass for three generations. They will show us some of the most traditional pieces that were used in every home in Jaén, as well as more contemporary works.

• If you feel like it, you can even try making some of the most basic braids.

We immerse ourselves in the history of Úbeda to learn about the importance of the Cobo family. Through the history of the city we discover its artistic heritage and the buildings and monuments that have made it a World Heritage city.

• The best way to start the tour is in the Plaza Vazquez de Molina, where you will find the Sacred Chapel of the Saviour, a building that will help you to understand the city and the importance of Francisco de los Cobos, who commissioned it as a funeral pantheon. Continue visiting the Parador del Condestable Dávalos, the Palacio de las Cadenas and Santa María de los Reales Alcázares. It also points out the Plaza del Mercado, the chapel of San Juan de la Cruz, the Hospital de Santiago and the Sinagoga del Agua.

If you feel like more, I recommend you visit the Palacio Vela de los Cobos, a building built in 1551 by the architect Andrés de Vandelvira for the Cobos family. In 1853 it passed onto the hands of the Savater family, who still live in the Palace. In it you can enjoy a library where original editions are kept, some of them more than five centuries old, like a Justinian from 1494 or a Hebrew Bible censored by hand. You can also visit a room where all the editions of the newspaper ABC are kept since the first printed issue, back in 1903. And, as if that were not enough, you can see the rooms and the dining room where the 19th century furniture is kept.

• If you have the chance, take the opportunity to talk to Don Natalio Savater, who still lives in the palace.

The gastronomic level of Úbeda is very high and you will be able to discover it in this small tavern whose name and appearance is deceptive. As soon as Inmaculada brings out the first dishes you will see for yourself.

• Don't forget to try the lamb with that crunchy touch and that tender meat.

After visiting Úbeda's most emblematic buildings it is time to explore Baeza, the sister city with which it shares the distinction of a World Heritage Site. Here you will find streets that transpire history and will make you feel like you are walking through a period film set. Don't miss the Old University of Baeza - where Antono Machado taught -, the Cathedral, the Jabalquinto Palace, the Old Butcher's Shop and the Plaza de los Leones.

• If you have time you can visit the workshop of Manuel Lozano, one of the few remaining gold embroiderers in the area. You will find it in the Plaza de los Leones, next to the Tourist Office.

If after a couple of days away from home you are looking for home-cooked food with products from the garden, come to the restaurant Llámame Lola. It has options for all tastes and a menu with seasonal products.

• One of its star dishes is the candied artichoke flower, although the spinach crepe is also finger-licking good.

Did you know that Jaén produces between 20 and 30% of the world's oil production and almost 50% of the national oil production? Therefore, there is no escape to Úbeda and Baeza that is complete without a visit to one of the many cortijos and oil mills that you will find in the area. In this way you can get to know the "sea of olive trees" from the inside (there are more than 60 million olive trees in Jaén), learn to distinguish between the many varieties of olive and, above all, understand a little more about the fascinating world of AOVE (Extra Virgin Olive Oil).

• I recommend you to visit the Spiritu Santo farmhouse, which is organically produced. They have their own olive oil mill where you can see the process of oil production first hand. To finish the visit there is nothing better than an oil tasting where you will learn to distinguish the different varieties.

Úbeda not only has an invaluable cultural and artistic heritage but also treasures its traditional craftsmanship. One example is pottery; there are seven active potteries in Úbeda. One of them is Juan Pablo Tito's pottery, where you can enjoy traditional pieces -such as the "parideras"-, but also, thanks to Juan Pablo's artistic training, new contemporary pieces. In fact, under the "Tito-Úbeda" label, he has become known all over the world, has collaborated with local illustrators and has even participated in film and series sets such as Águila Roja.

• You will find him in the Plaza del Ayuntamiento.

If you have stayed with desire to continue exploring the pottery, come to the pottery museum Paco Tito where you can learn about the evolution of pottery in recent decades. You can also visit Pablo Tito's pottery and even make your own piece and take it home with you.

• Do not miss the oven. It is an old-fashioned oven, which has to be fed with wood day and night to cook the pieces in the traditional way.

Úbeda enjoys privileged views over the "sea of olive trees". So be sure to visit one of its many viewpoints. You will find them in the Ronda de los Miradores and the Ronda Antonio Muñoz Molina.

• If you want to have a drink at night, the area of the viewpoints is, next to the Market Square, the place you are looking for.

Another restaurant where you can enjoy a high level of cuisine is the Antique restaurant. Enjoy the best oils of the area and local products in any of its delicious dishes or tapas.

• If you like to have a drink after lunch, ask for a micro gin and tonic. Strange as it may sound, they make them with a few drops of local oil - they are delicious!

Can you imagine a 13th century church converted into an exhibition and concert hall? Well, that is what you will find in the church of San Lorenzo, a building which, thanks to the Huerta de San Antonio Foundation, has once again come to life. Under the heading "open for works" the Foundation has been rehabilitating the building and converting it into a cultural space where you can enjoy exhibitions, concerts or presentations.

• Take a look at the upper part of the church of San Lorenzo. From there you can enjoy one of the best panoramic views of Úbeda.